Batting Size Calculator and Chart

Why batting names do not match quilt names

Take a typical full quilt at 84 x 90 in. Even with no extra at all, it is wider than the common full package of 81 x 96 in, so a full batting cannot cover it. With 4 in of extra per side you need 92 x 98 in, and that is too wide for a queen package at 90 x 108 in as well. The first package that fits is a king, at 120 x 120 in, which leaves plenty left over for another project.

That result surprises many people, but the arithmetic is simple. Some published charts pair a full quilt with full batting even though the numbers do not fit, so it is worth checking your own quilt rather than going by name. If a king feels wasteful, you could reduce the extra, join a smaller piece with leftover batting, or buy batting by the yard from a wide roll. The tool shows the figures so you can decide.

How much extra batting do you need?

Batting needs to be larger than the quilt top for the same reason the backing does: the layers shift and draw up as you quilt, and a longarm machine needs room at the sides. Many longarm quilters ask for about 4 in per side. Check with yours, since a quilter who loads the batting differently may ask for something else.

If you quilt on a home machine, 2 to 3 in per side is usually enough, and you can enter that figure to see whether a smaller package will work. The batting should be a little smaller than the backing or about the same size, so it never pokes out and catches on the machine as you sew. Use the quilt backing calculator with the same extra, and the two will line up.

Package sizes differ by brand

The sizes in this tool are the ones most often sold, and they are the sizes listed for widely available batting such as Hobbs Heirloom. Other brands and fibers come in slightly different sizes, including larger king packages and wider rolls. Read the label before you buy, particularly if your quilt only just fits. If the batting is folded tightly in a bag, measure it once you have opened it, since the listed size is usually approximate.

Batting is also sold by the yard from rolls, often 90, 96 or 120 in wide. This can be better value for regular quilters or very large quilts, since you buy only the length you need. For a quilt larger than a king package, a roll is usually the simplest answer. Another option is to butt two pieces edge to edge and join them with a wide zigzag or a fusible batting tape.

Allow for shrinkage in your batting

Cotton and cotton-blend battings can shrink after the first wash, which gives a quilt its soft, crinkled look. Many cotton battings shrink by a few percent, while polyester usually shrinks far less. The label normally gives a figure. If you want the crinkle, leave the batting as it is. If you do not, look for a preshrunk batting or a polyester one, or follow the maker’s directions for preshrinking.

For most quilts, a small amount of shrinkage is welcome, and it does not change which package you buy, because the batting is quilted down with the top. It only matters when an exact finished size is important, such as a quilt made for a specific wall or a particular bed. In that case, add a little to your plan in the quilt size chart and bed planner before you start.

Which type of batting suits your quilt?

Size is only half of the decision. Cotton is breathable and traditional, and it gives a flat look with a soft crinkle after washing. An 80/20 cotton and polyester blend is a popular all-round choice, since it is easy to quilt and a little lighter. Wool is warm, light and springy, and it shows off quilting stitches beautifully. Polyester is inexpensive, keeps its loft and resists shrinking, and bamboo blends are soft and drape well.

Loft, which means thickness, changes the look and the way the quilt handles. A low loft is easier to push through a home machine, while a high loft gives more dimension to quilted motifs. Also check the label for the quilting distance, which tells you how far apart your lines of stitching can be. Read our guides to batting for quilts and batting loft for more detail.

Common batting mistakes to avoid

The first mistake is buying by name and not checking the numbers, as the full and queen examples above show. The second is opening a folded batting and using it straight away. Batting is packed tightly, so it can carry deep creases. Unfold it the day before you need it, and let the creases relax. A few minutes in a dryer on low can help, if the label allows that. Check the label first, because heat can damage polyester and some blends.

Another mistake is ignoring the direction of the batting, as some brands have a recommended side or a scrim, which is a thin stabilizing layer on one face. Read the instructions for which way up it should go. Also check the maximum quilting distance, which is the widest gap you can leave between lines of stitching. If your quilting plan leaves more space than the label allows, the batting can shift or break apart with use and washing. If your plan is sparse, choose a batting rated for wide spacing, since not all of them are.